Berlin Fashion Week: Day 3
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Berlin Fashion Week’s penultimate day of shows and studio presentations saw the tent-frequenting crowd revel in the best work seen so far this season. Here are the need-to-knows:
Integrating Femininity into an Androgynous Collection
Berliner label Blacky Dress was uncompromising in its suggestion of an aesthetic that was at the same time raw and refined. Razor-sharp cuts mixed with digital prints on blouses and dresses. The emphasis seemed to be on outerwear, some prime examples of which were a metallic copper biker jacket and a lean khaki trench coat that had a safari look to it. Tougher styles gave way to a more a soft femininity towards the end of the collection with a set of skirts (from knee-length to maxi) in mint green.
Directly afterward, Swedish label Ubi Sunt presented a studio show that easily won this show-goer’s prize for best menswear. The dominant palette was reserved (midnight blue, grey, black) so as to better enhance the impact of the proportion play at work. Textured cocoon-esque round-collared shirts were paired with drop-crotch trousers, while the highlight was undoubtedly a sculptural bomber style jacket with contrast sleeves and prominent lapels.
Steven Tai: One to watch
The hot ticket of the day was award-winning designer Steven Tai’s show, sponsored by Mercedes-Benz and ELLE. A finalist at the 27th Hyeres Festival of Fashion and Photography, Tai’s show began with a punchy video that explained the festival and the designer’s lauded creation. As the applause finally gave way to the bass of the minimalist runway soundtrack, the show began. What followed was probably the superior womenswear collection of the season. Exaggerated shapes and fabric manipulation were at the crux of this collection, with deconstructed shirt-dresses which had seams so layered with off-white fabric, they resembled the worn pages of an old book.
EP_Anoui presented a small but well-formed studio show which saw models, who started off enrobed in white sheets, disrobe to reveal floral-print matte sequin swimwear (a body for women; a pair of short-short swimming shorts for men) and, surprisingly enough, thick knit pieces in olive green and straw yellow. The high point was probably to be found in the accessories – visors not unlike sleep masks, which reflected the laid-back nature of the collection.
Finally, Patrick Mohr shifted the focus from the official MBBFW tent to the Babylon cinema in the heart of the city. Opting for an unconventional approach for the exhibition of his collection, Mohr screened an atmospheric film entitled Metamohrphose (‘metamorphosis’ in English) which incorporated concepts of androgyny and transformation. That might sound lofty but the collection itself was anything but, consisting mostly of geometric prints in faint neon colours splashed across wearable separates (dresses, jeans and plunge-neck tops for women; tees and straight-leg trousers for guys).
Check out Cillian’s daily video review:
